Natural Hair in the News: The Great Debate on the Hair Type Chart
Story via Madam Noire
Photo courtesy of NaturallyCurly.com
Andre Walker, an Emmy award winning stylist best known for his work with Oprah, created a hair chart that would be a base for how most women of color identify their hair texture. Walker’s hair chart had four variations of texture from straight to kinky, Type 1 through 4. Thirteen years ago, Naturally Curly, one of the preeminent natural hair sites, with the help of their beckoning forum users, revamped the hair chart to include more breakdowns under the types. This is the chart that has become most infamous within the black hair community today. Now past Type 1 (straight hair) there is Type 2A-C (wavy hair), Type 3A-C (curly hair), Type 4A-C (coily/kinky hair), which better defines the variations in textures. However, as the natural hair community grows and more women are in search of basic education, a debate has sprung up over the usefulness of hair typing and what purpose it really serves.
Let’s sidebar briefly, before you dismiss this solely as another article on natural hair. Hair typing is used to market products for both natural and relaxed hair. How you apply heat or process your hair is impacted by the natural texture of your hair, therefore, it’s useful for all to be better informed.
Back to the topic at hand. How useful is the hair type chart? We’ve tried to break it down for readers on the site before, and many weren’t sold on it being a positive thing. Some feel that hair typing and the chart that helps you do so is nothing but a divisive tool that provides little information and easily misguides women on hair care. As Imani Dawson, founder of TribeCalledCurl notes:
“Hair typing as it exists today is divisive and ultimately destructive because it emphasizes one “type” of curl texture over another. It also provides limited information; just because your hair looks like someone else’s doesn’t mean it’ll respond to products similarly. Here are some important factors that the current hair system doesn’t take into account: porosity, strand size, and density. Curl pattern is the LEAST helpful in terms of caring for your natural hair, and figuring out which products work best.”
Dawson brings up several key points on the debate against the usefulness of hair type charts. The hair chart as it exists today is a simply a chart of curl pattern. Many female consumers who are uninformed (whether relaxed or natural) may simply associate their curl pattern as how to take care of their hair, while remaining ignorant to the key factors that really affect healthy hair care. The porosity of your hair, whether 3A or 4C can greatly sway how products impact it and what maintenance one needs in order to achieve healthy hair. Ever wondered why you and your friend have the same exact hair texture, or dare I say, “hair type,” but you can’t achieve the same styles she does? There’s more to hair then just texture and pattern.
This is not to say that one should just dismiss the hair type chart. It definitely has its place in the grand scheme of educating yourself on your hair. Karen Tappin, founder of Karen’s Body Beautiful, best sums it up by pointing out that the hair type chart “helps naturals be realistic about their texture.” She adds, “If you’re a type 4 hair, your hair won’t behave like type 2 hair, no matter how you style it or which products you use.” Personally, having been natural off and on over the past eight years, the hair type chart has helped me to have realistic expectations of my hair and provide a base for how to treat it. For the longest time I thought I was doing something wrong with my hair, and that everyone was suppose to have 3C/4A hair. I thought there had to be some magic product that I could put in my hair and snap my fingers to get some magic, but my hair was and is 4C.
When Shea Moisture, the organic hair care company aimed at women of color, hosted an event offering consultations on hair type, more than 350 women showed up. Richelieu Dennis, founder of Shea Moisture, spoke to the outreach of their event as it “speaks strongly to the need for guidance, education and support for women with textured hair.” Shea Moisture in their consultations actually took into consideration “other aspects of the hair such as porosity, condition, chemical damage and scalp issues to create a customized hair care regimen.” That is the progressive thought that needs to apply to how to use the hair type chart.
Michelle Breyer, co-founder of Naturally Curly, concedes that the hair type chart is a base to understanding your hair texture. It’s been 13 years since Breyer and associates built upon Andre Walker’s basic hair type chart to create the textured hair type chart of today and they understand the need to further inform the growing world of textured hair. Just as Breyer used her readership to devise the current hair type chart, they are currently working and listening to their core audience to further expand it to help women better understand their hair.
So let’s meet in the middle on the hair type chart and understand that in the end, it is just a base to understanding how to better care for your hair. As you begin to learn more about it, using the hair type chart as a guide can be a great foundation. But remember that as you browse YouTube or stroll down the hair care aisle, there’s more to your hair than just the pattern, and just because you say you’re one type doesn’t mean your days of learning and toiling over your hair are over. Proceed accordingly. Happy healthy hair!
What do you think of the hair type chart and hair typing in general? Does it help you or is it divisive?
Natural Hair in the News: Transitions to Natural Hair
by Zina Saro-Wiwa via The New York Times
When I set out to make a documentary about black women who are “transitioning” — cutting off their chemically straightened hair and embracing their natural kinky afro texture — I had no intention of appearing in the film. I felt I was an objective observer and really just wanted to highlight a growing movement. (Of the 50 or so women I struck up conversations with randomly on the street, the vast majority had gone natural within the last three years. According to one industry study, sales of chemical straightening kits, which can be harmful, reportedly dropped by 17 percent between 2006 and 2011.) But including my own story forced me to examine how I felt about my hair with more honesty than ever before.
There are as many “natural hair journeys” as there are transitioning women. What I find remarkable about the movement is the way it is spreading through black women in America. Many are transitioning silently, without much fanfare. Some are inspired by friends and family members who have already made the switch. As Anu Prestonia, the owner of Khamit Kinks, a natural hair salon in Brooklyn, told me, “There’s been an evolutionary process that has turned into a revolution.” It is not an angry movement. Women aren’t saying their motivation is to combat Eurocentric ideals of beauty. Rather, this is a movement characterized by self-discovery and health.
But black hair and the black body generally have long been a site of political contest in American history and in the American imagination. Against this backdrop, the transition movement has a political dimension — whether transitioners themselves believe it or not. Demonstrating this level of self-acceptance represents a powerful evolution in black political expression. If racial politics has led to an internalization of self-loathing, then true transformation will come internally, too. It will not be a performative act. Saying it loud: “I’m black and I’m proud” is one thing. Believing it quietly is another. So the transition movement is much more profound and much more powerful — and I believe it offers lessons in self-acceptance for people of all hues and all genders.
To watch the video that Zina created, click here.
Melody Washington of Natural U Salon in the News
via Clarion Ledger
Thea Parker is what you’d call a naturalista. Three years ago, upon learning she was pregnant, Parker decided she would no longer use chemicals to straighten her hair.
“And I was diagnosed with seborrhoeic dermatitis, which is an extreme form of dandruff,” said Parker, 32, a Brandon resident. “Every time I would get a relaxer, my scalp would be on fire. I couldn’t take the pain.”
Thus Parker began what has been a freeing and at times frustrating journey – a journey shared by many black women.
On Sunday, Natural U Hair Salon will host its “It’s A Natural U Affair” from 3 to 6 p.m. at the Jackson Medical Mall. The natural hair contest and fashion show is free and open to the public.
Melody Washington, owner and stylist at Natural U Hair Salon, said the event aims to raise awareness about natural hair and the women who choose to return to their roots. Washington hosted a similar event earlier this year that drew about 200 people.
“We’re kind of behind in Mississippi, but if you go everywhere else, natural hair is not new,” Washington said.
“We want to promote self-love to those who lack confidence or feel natural isn’t beautiful.”
Acceptance
For generations, black women have traded their tightly coiled roots for silky straight hair via a chemical relaxer or “creamy crack,” as it’s sometimes jokingly called. Straightened hair is often viewed as more socially acceptable in both the black community and mainstream America, while natural hair is viewed as unkempt or unprofessional.
“If your hair is relaxed, white people are relaxed,” afro-donning comedian Paul Mooney says in the 2009 documentary Good Hair. “If your hair is nappy, they’re not happy.”
The documentary, produced by comedian Chris Rock, explores the lengths black women go to achieve lustrous locks – shunning exercise (and sometimes sex), enduring scalp burns and developing an unhealthy dependence on stylists.
And upkeep can get pricey, too. Parker, who got her first relaxer at age 9, spent $300 to $400 a month on hair care before going natural. Some women easily spend upwards of $1,000 for quality hair extensions, even if they can’t afford it.
‘Transitioning’
For six months, Parker grew out her relaxed hair, allowing her natural hair texture or “new growth” to come through – a process called transitioning. Some women transition for only a few months while others do it for years, wearing protective hairstyles like roller set curls, braids and twists to blend the dual hair textures.
Tired of her own dual textures, Parker had her relaxed ends cut, also known as “the big chop.” The big chop is often a pivotal moment for a naturalista. Most of Parker’s family and friends protest her decision to this day.
Some even told Parker that her husband fell in love with her relaxed hair.
“It was shocking to see myself afterwards because I had long, straight hair all my life,” Parker said. “Everybody was upset. The only person I got a positive reaction from was my husband. He was like, ‘Whatever makes you happy.’ “
Parker’s big chop was liberating, but she had no clue that natural hair takes work, too.
“Right now, I need at least two hours for shampooing, detangling and styling,” Parker said.
Support group
Living in an area where natural hair isn’t that common, Parker reads online forums and blogs and watches YouTube videos for tips. She also joined a local online support group called Circle of Us on Facebook.
Sometimes Parker stops other naturalistas on the street, asking them about products and stylists.
Despite the work and research, Parker has no regrets. The thick tresses of her childhood have returned, her scalp is healthy and she has the freedom to do things she wouldn’t do before.
“I love to go out in the rain, I love to go out in the water. I plan to take swimming lessons this summer,” Parker exclaimed.
“It’s the best decision I’ve ever made in my life!”
Rihanna + Lil’ Mama with Natural Hair
There has been some buzz lately about a couple of celebrities sporting some natural hair-do’s!
Rihanna performed her new single “Where Have You Been” from her new album Talk the Talk at the American Idol Finale. To compliment her outfit she donned some faux locs. Rihanna revealed in a tweet that she has considered having locs since she was a teenager.
Lil’ Mama has also graced Twitter with her surprisingly large afro. It goes to show that we have no idea what the celebrities are hiding under the weave. Wonder if she’ll start showing this more? It would be nice since she seems to target the younger audience. This will be one thing she does that will make a positive influence on them. She also shares her insanely easy regimen and reveals a possible plan in the future for her hair.
It’s A Natural U Affair Event Review
When my guest and I arrived, Melody was about to speak. The event was held in the middle of the medical mall and had three seating sections. A gentleman, which I assume was working there, showed us where to sit. I thought that in itself was a good quality because there was a large crowd present and seating looked slim. The audience was made up of both natural and relaxed attendees. There were more women than men, which isn’t uncommon.
Melody Washington speaking to her attendees
When Melody spoke she involved the crowd with questions such as who flat irons their hair, our diet intake, and so on. By doing so she tied our answers into her explanation of hair care. For example, how it is important to deep condition before flat ironing hair. What I like about Melody is that she doesn’t just add her opinion on hair care, but also ties in how certain choices can affect the hair in a long term manner. A Q&A was offered to the floor. My guest actually asked a great question. He asked, “Since hair grease is said to be bad for the scalp, what can I use to get waves?” After careful consideration, Melody suggested shea butter.
After Melody finished speaking, there were two types of modeling shows. The first was a fashion show of her clients in various age groups and genders. The second was a small fashion show that displayed bow ties on guys and girls. The bow ties were designed by a young male, I apologize, but I did not catch his name. I thought the fashion show was a cute and different spin for the event.
I did not get a chance to visit the vendor tables, but there were some present. I did manage to visit one, which was Bernette Mitchell’s vendor table Bold N Beautiful Mobile Boutique. On our way out, I was given a card and a goodie bag that I have yet to look in (when I do I will list what was in it). Either way I was happy to receive free items.
Melody was thankfully greeted by a large crowd
Overall it was a really good event. I cannot think of any cons toward the event. I liked that Melody was dressed professional and her hair was funky, but went with her clothing. It was braid into what looked like a French braid and fro’ed at the top like an African flower I imagine. Congrats to Melody and I hope to see more events from her.
If you would like to get in touch with Melody for hair services, visit her website by clicking here.
Love, Peace, and Gariner Fructis,
Ashley Everett
Help! Itchy Scalp Syndrome
As we continue into these winter months, many of us suffer from not just dry hair but an extremely dry, itchy scalp. Tell us what you use to prevent an itchy scalp or what you use after an unbearable day of scratching your scalp. Share what you learned about what causes your scalp to itch and how you’ve found relief. Comment below!
The Right Foods for Great Hair
Eating right can help make your hair shine. And luckily, lots of the picks that are good for your body’s health are good choices for your hair. Read on to find the best — and tastiest! — hair care tips.
Salmon. Fish is full of protein, which is the chief component of hair. Oily fish like salmon contains beneficial omega-3 fatty acids that can help prevent a dry scalp, as well as vitamin B-12 and iron.
Beef, lamb, and oysters. These foods can supply your body with zinc, which can give your hair a boost.
Chicken and turkey. Poultry is packed with protein; it’s also rich in iron.
Eggs. Eggs are another food that’s rich in protein; they’re also a good source of vitamin B-12 and biotin.
Milk, yogurt, and cheese. Dairy products are plentiful sources of calcium and protein. Choose low-fat or fat-free versions so your waistline and hair can both benefit.
Nuts. Cashews, pecans, and almonds are full of zinc. Walnuts contain zinc too, along with alpha-linolenic acid. And Brazil nuts provide the mineral selenium, which can help keep your scalp healthy. Many nuts contain B vitamins as well.
Flaxseed. Add ground flaxseed to cereal to boost your consumption of beneficial omega-3s.
Sunflower seeds. Choose these for a snack — it has benefits for your hair because of its B vitamin content.
Olive oil. This healthy oil contains beneficial vitamin E, so use it for your sautés as well as your salads.
Lentils and kidney beans. Legumes like these supply the protein your hair needs for growth; in addition, they provide iron, zinc, and the B vitamin biotin.
Whole grains. Whole grains are full of B vitamins, iron, and zinc. The foods to choose are whole-grain breads, breakfast cereals, and pasta. Other good whole-grain sources are oatmeal, brown or wild rice, buckwheat, and popcorn (skip the butter, though).
Avocado. Eat avocado to get a good dose of vitamin E — pass the guacamole!
Broccoli, spinach, and chard. Dark green leafy veggies are full of vitamins A and C. Your body uses these foods to produce sebum, the oily secretion on your scalp that works like conditioner. These veggies also pack iron and calcium.
Carrots, squash, and sweet potatoes. The vitamin A in orange vegetables can help keep your scalp healthy. Apricots are a good choice, too.
Cauliflower and cabbage. These vegetables provide silica, a mineral that may help protect your hair against loss and breakage.
Onion and garlic. Your hair will benefit from the bioflavonoids contained in these flavorful allium vegetables.
Oranges and grapefruit. All the citrus fruits, in fact, are good sources of vitamin C, which helps your body absorb iron.
Water. Drink plenty of water to keep your hair — and your body — well hydrated.
A balanced diet that’s heavy on fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and low-fat dairy foods is a great choice for the health of both your body and your hair. Choose a mix of the foods on this list to ensure a healthy head of hair. If you’re considering taking supplements to make sure you’re getting enough of any of these vitamins or minerals, talk to your doctor. Some can be dangerous in high doses.
Choose the right foods, such as the ones listed here, and you’ll have beautiful hair to complement your healthy physique.
December Event Poll
Hello fellow naturals!
The P.S. I Love Your Hair Christmas Affair was a great event. We thank all those who could make it. We apologize again for the inconvenience in the location change, but there were circumstances that caused the change.
We received a lot of verbal feedback from those who were not able to make it. We want to hear from you on your opinion of the date we had the event. We are doing this for all of you of course, therefore, we want to hear from you. We ask that you allow your voice to be heard so that we can better plan and accommodate as many as we can.
Peace, Love, and take care of your curls this winter!
The P.S. I Love Your Hair Christmas Affair MAJOR UPDATE!!!
Click here to watch the video
We have had a location change due to a misunderstanding with our previous venue host. We apologize if this is an inconvenience for anyone.
New Location Address:
Pearl’s
3505 Terry Rd Suite 203
Jackson, MS 39212
For all those who have purchased a ticket, you will be receiving an e-mail shortly so that you will be aware of the changes.
Thank you everyone for your patience.
Mississippi Doesn’t Care About Natural Hair?!?!
Ashley and I were discussing business for our Christmas event (have you bought your ticket yet, by the way?), and she told me a story about a girl she knows who expressed her frustrations about the awareness of natural hair in Mississippi. She feels like the state of Mississippi does not care about giving those with natural hair resources in order to make their hair journey less expensive and less of a hassle.
I agree that it is a little difficult for us naturals in Mississippi. Why?
- We have more commercial hair products available to us than natural products. The only places that I have seen that sell natural hair products are:
- Walgreens, who sells Shea Moisture
- Target, who sells Kinky Curly, Shea Moisture, Giovanni, and a few other brands, but they are located in D’Iberville, Flowood, Hattisburg, Horn Lake, North Jackson, and Olive Branch. Why is this a problem? Well more and more college students are going natural. The two largest universities in the state is located in Starkville and Oxford. All of the locations are AT LEAST two hours away. So either we take a drive on the weekend, or we order online. Most college students do not have the ability to do either of the options.
- There is a store in natural grocery store called Rainbow Natural Grocery Cooperative located in Jackson, MS. They have a larger stock of other popular brands, such as Jason and Aubrey Organics. They also have natural essential and carrier oils. Again, this place is also located farther from those who desire to have these in their PJ cabinet.
- We have heard complaints of the lack of natural hair salons in the areas. Believe it or not they are out there. They are hard to find and most of them are not making themselves very noticeable. We plan to fix that if we can.
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